Dining Out Like a Sommelier
Do you know how to navigate a restaurant wine list, how to select wines that impress without overspending, and without irritating restaurant staff? This was my assignment for élite Magazine’s article. And yes, I have a lot of opinions on the matter, some of which I covered in my book Wine Etiquette for Everyone a few years back. Digging right in, I asked my sommelier and wine expert friends for their thoughts, these are their answers – somewhat abbreviated due to space limitations – followed by mine.
Wine Experts Navigating the Wine List
From a restaurant sommelier: Avoid ordering the “big” names and famous regions. If there is a sommelier available, let them know what you like (give several examples, not just “I like Napa Cabs”) and tell them what price range you are considering. If it’s an Italian restaurant, stick to Italian wines that are on the list for a reason. If it’s a steakhouse, you’re pretty wide open. Never pick one of the cheapest selections, because they will be marked up the most. Wine by the glass is usually not a good choice. And as far as bringing your own wine, make sure of the restaurant’s policy before you show up. Don’t complain if they say “no”, don’t complain if it’s too high, don’t waste the sommelier’s time trying to get him/her to drool over your choice. Do tip the sommelier as soon as you arrive. You are taking money out of the sommelier’s pocket when you bring your own wine. Sommeliers get paid a percentage on bottles sold, not bottles brought in. Be a good guest.
From a collector: Interesting question; however, navigating a wine list at a restaurant comes down to knowledge and understanding of wine and pairings. If someone is knowledgeable about and has a firm grasp of certain regions and types of wine, then they will be more successful than someone who has no knowledge. I’ve always believed that it’s foolish not to use an expert sommelier for help with respect to a wine list. Most sommeliers will take into account someone’s preference on style of wines and price preferences if you take the time to communicate such! So, the answer comes down to knowledge! Are you astute enough to assess a wine list or not? If not use the sommelier!
From a wine distributor: Know the restaurant corkage policy before you arrive whenever possible. Review the wine list before you decide to buy wine at or bring wine to dinner. Don’t bring a wine featured on the wine list, even if it’s a different vintage. When ordering don’t be afraid to ask questions about wines that might pair well with the night’s dinner selections. If you do not like the recommendations, thank them politely. Do not be curt rude or dismissive. Lower priced wines are less expensive but they also can have a higher mark up over the wholesale price percentage (two to three vs. three to four). Branded labels (Caymus/Prisoners Et al) will likely always have full mark up of three or four times wholesale regardless of the wines retail price. If you are feeling daring or adventurous ask the Somm or specialist to pair your wines (provide them a price point to hit).
From Eve: I’m all for working with the sommelier in the restaurant if you feel lost looking at the list. That is why they are there. In some areas, like the Santa Clarita Valley, there aren’t a lot of somms, but the bartenders, servers, and managers should be able to make recommendations based on discussions with you. Having a talk about what you are looking for include asking what kinds of wines you currently drink, if there is a certain wine critic you follow, what price range you’re comfortable with, if there is a special occasion – are all good investigative questions that serve well for the restaurant staff to make some suggestions.
Eve Bushman has a Level Two Intermediate Certification from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET), a “certification in the first globally-recognized course” as an American Wine Specialist ® from the North American Sommelier Association (NASA), Level 1 Sake Award from WSET, was the subject of a 60-minute Wine Immersion video (over 16k views), authored “Wine Etiquette for Everyone” and has served as a judge for the Proof Awards, Cellarmasters, LA Wine Competition, Long Beach Grand Cru and the Global Wine Awards. You can email Eve@EveWine101.com to ask a question about wine or spirits.
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